Damascene Jewelry

There is a wide variety of jewelry sold online which is described as genuine Damascene. This article gives information to help you distinguish between the different types of Damascene Jewelry.

Various Types Of Damascene Jewelry

A web search for a definition of Damascene will return several different definitions, but most of them will refer to the art of inlaying or steel or other metals with gold or silver metals. Many of the definitions also refer to Damascus as the city of origin - thus the name. Some definitions even mistakenly relate it to the process of damskeeening or engine turning.

As it pertains to jewelry, the word Damascene is a process whereby non precious metals are decorated with 18-24K gold in very decorative patterns. The procedure is for artisans to cover the surface of an object with fine grooves, using sharp cutting tools.  Figures are then drawn onto the scored surfaces.  After this, gold wires are pressed into these grooves with a steel punch and hammer. Figures are then drawn on the scored surfaces. The whole item is then blued to produce a black background by a total oxidation of the surfaces which are not damasked. A delicate and light process of chipping gives a lovely sheen to the object. Finally, the piece is mounted to give the final jewelry piece.  

The finished product has a very dramatic look with many Damascene designs focusing on the Renaissance look of birds and flowers. You will also find Arabesque and other geometric designs and landscape designs are possible, particularly in Japanese Damascene - or Amita.

The process dates back to the middle ages and was used by Egyptian, Greek and Roman artisans. It became popular in the XV century in Europe. Toledo, Spain is the largest producer of Damascene jewelry today.

Reed and Barton have an unique look to their Damascene jewelry with amber and orange colored backgrounds and designs in silver, (it contains copper too) instead of the traditional black and gold designs commonly seen.

Much of the Damascene produced for sale on the internet is actually made in the "Damascene Technique"- also called "Toledo Damascene, or should perhaps be better called "Faux Damascene." It has the appearance of genuine Damascene jewelry, in that it is often black and gold, but the gold is not usually genuine 18k or 24K, and much of it is mass produced - some in Spain and much of it in the far east.

Following are some pictures of various types of Damascene jewelry and Faux damascene jewelry.

Amita Japanese Damascene Faux Damascene  from Toledo 
Amita Japanese Damascene Faux Damascene -  tourist item Toledo Spain
Damascene Technique Brooch  Figural Faux Damascene Pin 
Damascene "Technique" Brooch Figural Faux Damascene Pin
Traditional Damascene abstract styling  Filigree Bird Damascene Design 
Traditional Damascene abstract styling Filigree Bird Damascene Design
Reed and Barton Damascene  Reed and Barton Damascene 
Reed and Barton Damascene

All of this information has been compiled from my research into the subject and is offered without warranty from vintagejewelrymall.com.

VINTAGE JEWELRY CATEGORIES:

Vintage Designer Signed Jewelry
Vintage Unsigned Jewelry
Jewelry - by Theme
Jewelry  - by Material

See All resource Articles