Damascene Jewelry
There is a wide variety of jewelry sold online which is described as genuine
Damascene. This article gives information to help you distinguish between the
different types of Damascene Jewelry.
Various Types Of Damascene Jewelry
A web search for a definition of Damascene will
return several different definitions, but most of them will refer to the art
of inlaying or steel or other metals with gold or silver metals. Many of the
definitions also refer to Damascus as the city of origin - thus the name.
Some definitions even mistakenly relate it to the process of damskeeening or
engine turning.
As it pertains to jewelry, the word Damascene is a process whereby non
precious metals are decorated with 18-24K gold in very decorative patterns.
The procedure is for artisans to cover the surface of an object with fine
grooves, using sharp cutting tools. Figures are then drawn onto the scored
surfaces. After this, gold wires are pressed into these grooves with a
steel punch and hammer. Figures are then drawn on the scored surfaces. The
whole item is then blued to produce a black background by a total oxidation
of the surfaces which are not damasked. A delicate and light process of
chipping gives a lovely sheen to the object. Finally, the piece is mounted
to give the final jewelry piece.
The finished product has a very dramatic look with many Damascene
designs focusing on the Renaissance look of birds and flowers. You will also
find Arabesque and other geometric designs and landscape designs are
possible, particularly in Japanese Damascene - or Amita.
The process dates back to the middle ages and was used by Egyptian,
Greek and Roman artisans. It became popular in the XV century in Europe.
Toledo, Spain is the largest producer of Damascene jewelry today.
Reed and Barton have an unique look to their Damascene jewelry with
amber and orange colored backgrounds and designs in silver, (it contains
copper too) instead of the traditional black and gold designs commonly seen.
Much of the Damascene produced for sale on the internet is actually made
in the "Damascene Technique"- also called "Toledo Damascene, or should
perhaps be better called "Faux Damascene." It has the appearance of genuine
Damascene jewelry, in that it is often black and gold, but the gold is not
usually genuine 18k or 24K, and much of it is mass produced - some in Spain
and much of it in the far east.
Following are some pictures of various types of Damascene jewelry
and Faux damascene jewelry.
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| Amita Japanese Damascene |
Faux Damascene - tourist item Toledo Spain |
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| Damascene "Technique" Brooch |
Figural Faux Damascene Pin |
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| Traditional Damascene abstract styling |
Filigree Bird Damascene Design |
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| Reed and Barton Damascene |